Uncategorized

Copenhagen

IMG_6203

IMG_6227

Over Easter, I went on a mini tour of Scandinavia, stopping off in Copenhagen, Gothenberg and Oslo. Copenhagen was my favourite of all the places we visited, because it’s so diverse while also being so compact. In minutes you can move from the traditional canal side district with its coloured houses and fishing boats to the bustling streets of the main shopping hub, before stopping by Denmark’s royal palace complex and then hopping across to the permanent outdoor fairground, Tivoli Gardens. It’s an intriguing mix of so many different styles of architecture, and I was reminded of Paris, Moscow and Italy at various points as we were walking around. What’s fantastic is that there is so much to see and do and yet it all feels so spacious, calm and unhurried. It’s an absolutely perfect place to spend a weekend.

IMG_6190

IMG_6228

We were in Copenhagen for two days, and we packed plenty into our schedule to ensure we got to see the best the city had on offer. Our home whilst in the city was a houseboat on the canal at Christianshavn, which is quite a trendy neighbourhood with lots of nice cafes that is a short walk into the city centre. We loved staying on the houseboat, because obviously having your own boat has to be the ultimate dream, and we had great fun pretending to drive it (our host very wisely didn’t leave us the keys to the engine!) and revelled in our smugness when we sat on the deck at night with our wine and our specially selected playlist of boat themed songs, imagining ourselves the envy of passers-by without such adventurous accommodation! If you too want to enjoy being Captain of your own ship for a few days, there are plenty available to rent on airbnb.

IMG_6218

IMG_6255

One of the best spontaneous activities we enjoyed was to climb up the incredible spiral tower of the Baroque Vor Frelsers Kirke, which towers over Christianshavn and offers spectacular views of the city, if you’re brave enough to make the climb! On our descent, we popped into Christiania, which is very close by, and is the former ‘free state’ of Copenhagen, peopled by those looking to live an eco friendly, alternative lifestyle; it’s amazing to see how the people who live there have constructed homes and businesses out of recycled materials, and you’ll certainly see some characters as you walk through! I loved having dinner in Kongens Nytorv, the pretty stretch of the canal where the houses all look like they’ve been standing since the 17th century and are painted in lovely bright colours; it really is quintessential Scandinavia. It’s a must-do to explore Tivoli Gardens, which is the open air fairground by the station, filled with rides and shops and restaurants, as well as peacocks and beautiful flowers. I wasn’t brave enough to go on the biggest ride, the screams from which you can hear on the other side of the city, but if you’ve got a stronger stomach for heights than me, then it would be a fantastic experience, I’m sure! The main Art Gallery in Copenhagen is a real pleasure to visit, with some absolutely beautiful works by lesser known Scandinavian artists that I thoroughly enjoyed seeing, as well as the more famous ones, such as Hammershoi. I also really enjoyed wandering through the Stroget, the pedestrian streets where the main shops and cafes are, and going over to the fort area, where you’ll find the Little Mermaid statue sitting in the water. We had a wonderful dinner on our last night at Almanak, a luxurious waterside restaurant run by two chefs from Copenhagen’s famous Michelin-starred Noma, but without the ridiculous prices, followed by a lovely late night stroll along the harbour, where the innovatively designed glass opera house perches and there are trampolines built into the decking to help you burn off all the delicious food Denmark has on offer! I really did love every minute; Copenhagen was the perfect starting point for our Scandinavian adventure!

IMG_6171

IMG_6173

Spring Fancies

copenhagen

I think the Easter holiday might be my favourite. It’s short enough for every day to be savoured, but long enough to also feel like a proper rest. I might have a pile of work to do and the impending doom of exams lurking around the corner (sending my babies into that exam hall is just as stressful for me as it is for them!) but it’s finally Spring, my house and garden are full of beautiful daffodils, there are so many exciting cultural things going on in London at the moment and I am full of plans and prospects for the months ahead. Always, at this time of year, I feel like a corner has been turned, the winter and its gloom has been cast off, and I am left re-energised and renewed. So, what have I been up to during these halcyon days of Easter holidays?

1. I’ve been to Scandinavia! And it was wonderful. I will tell you more about it in subsequent posts, but if you want enormous blue skies, beautiful scenery, historic architecture, amazing pastries and the freshest, purest air you’ll ever breathe, then go to Scandinavia. Everything is also ridiculously clean, and wonderfully efficient. It was heaven.

2. I’m about a decade behind the rest of the world, as always, and am finally reading Wolf Hall! I’m loving every minute; I’m absolutely absorbed, and completely in awe of how brilliant Hilary Mantel is. I must say that I did cheat and watch the beautifully shot, acted and scripted TV series first (which is now on DVD if you missed it), every episode of which is pure pleasure from start to finish, and this is helping considerably with my ability to keep track of who everyone is and why they are important. I haven’t felt so entranced by a story in a very long time; the characters are haunting me even in my sleep.

3. I just finished reading a very interesting biography of an art dealer, Lord Duveen, who I had never heard of before Daunt Books sent me a copy of the beautifully produced reprint they have recently published. I love reading about larger-than-life characters who blaze their way through life by being utterly shameless, charming everybody and breaking all the rules, and Duveen seems to have been exactly that sort of person and then some. This biography is rather sanitised and turns a blind eye to the clearly illegal and also immoral practices Duveen was warrant to indulge himself in, but as an insight into the life of a fascinating individual and of the machinations that go on behind the scenes of the arts world, this really is worth a read. I raced through it on my plane journeys to and from Scandinavia, and it’s made me interested to read more about how art is valued, promoted and sold; Breakfast at Sotheby’s sounds like the perfect follow-up read.

delawarr

4. I’ve been to see the Ladybird by Design exhibition at the stunning De La Warr Pavilion in Bexhill. Bexhill is a south coast seaside town, near to Eastbourne, that has sadly seen better days, though it has a fantastic fish and chip shop in Minnie Bertha’s, a nice array of vintage shops scattered throughout the back streets, some very interesting, if crumbling, Indian inspired Victorian architecture and a largely empty and expansive beach that is bordered with pretty beach huts. The jewel in the town however has to be the De La Warr Pavilion, which is an outstanding example of Art Deco and a real surprise to find in a place that appears to be so distinctly unfashionable. It is now used for exhibitions and also houses a very nice cafe and shop. The Ladybird exhibition, which is free, though not on for much longer, is absolutely wonderful and such a fun trip down memory lane for those of us who grew up learning to read with Ladybird books. There are numerous original illustrations on display as well as some fascinating information about the development of the brand and its enormous influence on the way in which children came to be taught to read in post-war Britain. If you can make it down for the day, do go – it’s well worth it.

5. I’ve been listening to some folk inspired music to get me in the spirit of Spring. I read about this band while in Norway, whose rising popularity has obviously passed me by, as I am the least fashionable person ever! They’re fantastic and their latest album Stay Gold is perfect easy listening for a sunny afternoon.

6. I’ve got a new job! Next academic year, I’ll be working in a brand new international school right in the middle of London, which means that I’ll be packing my bags and moving back to the Big Smoke this summer – I can’t wait! I’ll miss my students enormously and will be a sobbing mess when I have to say goodbye at the end of term, but I’m so ready to move on to a new challenge and to have the bright lights of London at my fingertips again.

I hope you’re enjoying the advent of Spring as much as me!

Ypres

tyne cot cross

A couple of weeks ago, I went on a day trip with some of my students to the battlefields of WWI, in and around Ypres. Having read and taught plenty of WWI fiction in my time, I was intrigued to see the contemporary reality of the world of mud and gore depicted by those who experienced the horrors of trench warfare. Would there still be marks of the conflict on the landscape? Would I be able to recognise any of the places I had read about? Would I feel moved by what I saw, able to imagine the scenes of conflict that had once scarred this now peaceful corner of the Belgian countryside?

cemetery

tyne cot

The journey to Ypres was in itself a time of reflection. As we drove to Dover to catch the ferry, our guide explained that we were following in the exact footsteps of the soldiers, who would have come to the port at Dover to catch their boats to France. Our approach to Dover was met with delighted gasps from the students, who all pressed themselves up against the windows at their first glimpse of the sea; for us, the prospect of a boat trip across the Channel was a joy, a treat, something to be celebrated. For the soldiers, the sea was a divide between the peace of England and the horror of war: a gaping chasm between a heretofore perfectly ordinary life and an almost certain death. As we clambered up the stairs from the car deck to the top floors of the ferry, the students rushing off to spend their Euros in the shop and race around the deck while us teachers retreated to a quiet corner to get our injection of caffeine and a precious moment of peace, I couldn’t help but wonder what it must have felt like to get on board a ship and know you were facing a hell from which you might never return. When we docked at Calais and started driving through the flat, monotonous countryside on our way to the Belgian border, again, I wondered what it must have felt like to be driving along these roads in the back of trucks, hearing the sound of guns growing louder and louder, watching this foreign landscape pass by, and wondering whether you would ever find yourself returning to the home you knew and loved. How extraordinary that one hundred years on, this place, that was once a churning pit of mud and blood and rubble is now fields punctuated with clusters of suburban homes, peacefully sitting atop land that was a graveyard for so many hundreds of thousands of men. It doesn’t seem right, but then, at the same time, it seems so utterly fitting. After all, this was what they were fighting for; freedom, peace, prosperity. The right for life to go on.

wardetritus

When we reached our first stop, at Hooge, we had already seen several Commonwealth cemeteries, their uniform gravestones a constant reminder of what once took place here. Many are very small, and take up part of people’s gardens or fields; others are enormous, and the scale of the loss, represented by the thousands of headstones that disappear into the horizon, is truly brought home. However, I was not prepared for what I found at Hooge. There is a large crater here, made by a bomb laid underground, and not only can you go down into the tunnels made by the bombers, but you can also walk in a stretch of trench that still remains in its original condition, duckboards and all. I am tall; 5″10, to be precise, and the walls of the trench barely made it up to my elbow. I would have had to spend all my time stooping in order to stay protected, and even on a dry day, like when we visited, the ground was still a series of sloppy, muddy puddles that the wooden boards sunk into. It was incredibly eerie to be in a trench, and I couldn’t bear to think of what had taken place where I was standing. After just a few minutes, I felt claustrophobic; what must it have been like to spend days in there? It gave us all considerable pause for thought, and showed us a reality that literature cannot hope to convey, no matter how brilliant and descriptive the prose.

german cemetery

After this rather surreal experience of literally walking in the soldiers’ shoes, we went on to visit Tyne Cot cemetery, a huge Commonwealth cemetery where around 20,000 men are buried. We conducted a wreath laying ceremony here, which we all found very moving, before wandering amidst the graves. So many are for unknown men, and so many were younger than me when they died; it was really quite overwhelming to stand there and see these graves, stern and erect as soldiers, stretching on, row after row – the loss is just so difficult to comprehend until you see it like this, with each of those headstones representing a person. When you think that each of these enormous cemeteries dotted around the Ypres region just represents a fraction of those who died in the war as a whole, it really does take your breath away. I found myself feeling quite tearful as I watched the sun start to set in the distance, and thought of these men lying here for so many years, many never visited and some possibly no longer remembered, each dying far from home having faced a death I can’t even bear to think about. Worse than this, however, was the German cemetery just down the road. Understandably, the Belgians did not particularly want to give up much land to the Germans in order for them to bury their dead, and so, in a  small patch of a Belgian field there is a pit where 25,000 German soldiers have all been thrown in together, their names inscribed in tiny letters on a series of plinths. The difference in the treatment of the dead says it all about what it means to win or lose a war, and the bleakness of the German cemetery made us all feel very uncomfortable as we considered how the German mothers, fathers, wives, children and so on must have felt to know that their loved ones, who had faced just the same horror as the Commonwealth soldiers, had been treated in this way. Our King asked our soldiers to fight: their Kaiser asked them to fight. They didn’t start the war, and they were just children, too. Surely they deserved more dignity in death than this?

trench

Our return journey home took us through the rebuilt streets of Ypres, which looks just like an authentic medieval town, despite having largely been reconstructed from scratch after the war. We drove through the Menin Gate, a memorial to the soldiers whose bodies were never found, that was built at the Eastern edge of Ypres, over the road on which all allied soldiers would have had to travel to get to the front. It is still closed every night for the sounding of the Last Post, and if we hadn’t have had a ferry to catch, I would have loved to have stayed to hear it. As we drove back to Calais in the darkening twilight, I was surprised by how moved I had been by the whole day. I had thought the war had been forgotten here, and that all traces of it would be gone. I’m glad that it is still possible to come and understand the colossal scale of the atrocities man committed unto others here, and I think it’s so important especially for young people to see this and reflect on what it means to incite violence and hate. I only wish we would learn from the past, though; it never ceases to make me sad that, as my history teacher always used to love telling us, history teaches us that history teaches us nothing.

Housekeeping by Marilynne Robinson

newyork 1983

I’d been looking forward to reading this book for ages. I adored Marilynne Robinson’s Gilead trilogy of novels, which are the most beautiful, lyrical, heartrending pieces of prose I’ve ever read, and I had been saving up Housekeeping as a special treat. I’ve been finding it quite difficult to read lately, which is a strange experience for me; I think my mind has often been too full of other things to be able to allow myself to detach from my own existence. Therefore, I plucked Housekeeping off the shelf a couple of weeks ago in the hope that it would reinvigorate my imagination. As I expected, I was met with absolutely exquisite writing, but unfortunately, I found I couldn’t connect with the characters or their stories at all. Unlike the Gilead novels, all of which have very strong narrative voices, Housekeeping‘s narrative voice is much less well-defined and the characters, I thought, were rather undeveloped, which made it difficult to understand and believe their actions. In many ways, the novel’s setting is the main character, and I suppose it could be argued that the human characters are not particularly well drawn because they are periphery to their location. They are shadowy, rather powerless figures, acted upon by the pervasive influence of the haunting lake at the heart of the eerie, sprawling town of Fingerbone, and lost amidst the whisperings of the past that float in the air above this town that is both beautiful and destructive. As one would expect of Robinson, it all feels rather Biblical; the town is regularly flooded, at its heart is a lake that seems to harbour sin and temptation (the train buried in its depths is perhaps a metaphor for the destructive powers of modernity, namely industrialisation and materialism, on the human psyche) and the main character, Ruth, embodies the unquestioning devotion and self sacrifice of her Biblical namesake, following those she loves without a thought for her own desires. Overall, it is a strange, unsettling tale and I really wasn’t quite sure what to make of it.

The essential story at the heart of the novel is that of Ruth and her sister Lucille, whose mother, Helen, leaves them at their grandmother’s house in the rural, lakeside town of Fingerbone before driving her car into the lake for no known reason. This is a tragedy that is not without precursor in the family; Helen’s father was drowned when his train plummeted off the bridge across Fingerbone’s enormous lake some decades previously. The train was never recovered, his body never found, and Helen’s mother was left to bring up her three daughters in the shadow of a legend that continues to haunt this small, sodden, poverty-stricken town of people who have had to grow too used to hardship. The girls’ grandmother, broken by the loss of all three daughters from a home that was never filled with anything but love and comfort, dies not long after Helen, and the girls are left to be brought up by Sylvie, Helen’s long-lost sister, who breezes back into Fingerbone after spending her adult life wandering away from her roots. Sylvie does not understand how to live a conventional life, and has no real wish to; she loves her nieces, but Lucille in particular is embarrassed by her strange behaviour and both girls are perpetually terrified that she will disappear again, wont as she is to sleep in her shoes. As the girls grow older, Sylvie’s inability to provide a normal home environment starts to push the sisters apart, with placid Ruth remaining loyal to her aunt while Lucille begins to view Sylvie with contempt as she strives to become like the other girls at school, who have ordinary mothers and fashionable clothes and enough money to go for milkshakes after school.

What is home? What is family? What are the ties that bind us to people and places, and what does it mean to leave them behind? Robinson asks all of these questions while writing a fluid and mesmerising vision of a waterlogged world filled with love and longing and sadness and frustration. I was impressed by the prose, and loved rolling Robinson’s words over my tongue, but there was something missing that made it quite an unsatisfying read. I think, ultimately, I didn’t care enough about any of the characters, and that made me feel disconnected from the events. I couldn’t become absorbed in the world created for me on the pages, and I was left feeling rather chilled and disturbed by the vision of Fingerbone and its people. Perhaps that was Robinson’s intention, but still. It didn’t sit well with me, somehow. I’m glad I read the Gilead trilogy first, because I’m not sure I would have tried Robinson again after reading Housekeeping. That would have been a great shame, as it would be hard to find more beauty, humanity and emotion in a book than you do in Gilead. If you’ve never read any Robinson, definitely start there first.

London Culture

IMG_9951

I love a good cultural outing, and I’ve been up to a fair bit lately in London, which has a range of fantastic plays and exhibitions on offer at the moment. Popping to see a collection of beautiful paintings or an engrossing play is the perfect antidote to the monochrome February skies that weigh so heavily on the spirit.

In half term I took full advantage of my lovely week of holiday to catch up on some of the things I had been meaning to get to for a while. Firstly, I took my nephews to the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, so that we could all learn about space; this was not massively successful in that three boys under 8 are always liable to cause some kind of disaster wherever they go, and before we’d barely walked into the building I was having to rush us past the damage they’d inflicted on a meteorite that had managed to survive for several billion years before these little cherubs had bulldozed their way into it, but they did love the Planetarium, where we watched a fascinating show on Dark Space and the Quantum Universe. Even the littlest of my babies, who is 3, was transfixed by the stars above his head and I was very impressed by the clear yet still cerebrally challenging voiceover that explained a lot of the theory I had seen displayed via the medium of peas and carrots in the excellent The Theory of Everything. If you’ve got any passing interest in space, whether you’ve got kids in tow or not, a day out at the Royal Observatory and Planetarium is highly recommended. It makes a nice change from an art museum, plus, it’s right in the heart of Greenwich Park, which offers glorious sweeping views across the London skyline as well as acres of greenery to explore. Greenwich itself is also well worth a visit; you can have fun hopping over the line where time begins, have a look around its other major museum, the National Maritime Museum, wander around the famous indoor market (if you’re there on the weekend), climb aboard the historic ship Cutty Sark, get the best ice-cream in London at Phillies (almost next to the enormous 18th century church, St Alfege), walk under the Thames via the Edwardian foot tunnel between Greenwich and Poplar, and take a boat back down the river to Westminster, which will offer you glorious views of the city.

Dr_Pozzi_at_Home

My next museum visit was to the much anticipated Sargent exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery. Singer Sargent is probably my favourite artist (though sometimes I decide I prefer Boldini – his portraits have such energy, such as this one) and I couldn’t wait to see a good amount of his remarkable portraits together in one place. I am lucky in that I have been spoiled through having lived and travelled widely in the US; Boston’s Fine Art museum and the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum have exquisite collections of his work, and I will never forget seeing The Daughters of Edward Darley Boit alongside those massive vases in the enormous room they are in (were in? I haven’t been back for a few years…can anyone enlighten me?) at the Museum of Fine Arts. There are also several very good Sargents in New York, and my absolute favourite Sargent (Lady Agnew) is in Edinburgh, which I saw a couple of years ago and was utterly mesmerised by.

The Portrait Gallery showcases, in my opinion, two particularly outstanding pieces; Dr Pozzi at Home, and Edouard and Marie-Louise Pailleron, which are truly breathtaking, but the others were not particularly exciting and nor were they particularly representative of Sargent at his best, in my opinion. I was disappointed that more works had not been borrowed from foreign collections, and, as I often find at British exhibitions these days, many of the paintings were from the Tate, where they would have been free to view at any time prior to the exhibition anyway. I know all of the reviews have been glowing, but for me, the exhibition was a big disappointment. It was housed in too small a space, too many people had been allowed in at the same time, making it very difficult to see the works, and the price, at £16, was extortionate for what was on offer. When I think of all the portraits of artists and friends of Sargent I have seen around the world, this exhibition was utterly lacklustre. I felt very short changed indeed. Where I did not feel short changed, however, was next door, at the National Gallery, where there is a fantastic free exhibition of the Norwegian artist Peder Balke’s beautiful landscapes of 19th century Scandinavia. I was utterly mesmerised by his amazing depictions of the sea and sky and, as I am going on a whistlestop tour of Denmark, Sweden and Norway over Easter, it made me very excited for the beauty I am sure I will see when I am there.

the hard problem

More success was had at the theatre; I very much enjoyed Di and Viv and Rose, which was funny and moving and so very true about female friendships, and hilarious about the experience of being at university. It’s definitely worth seeing if you’re in town. I also saw Tom Stoppard’s new play at the National, The Hard Problem, which I found thought provoking, though somewhat formulaic and simplistic, which I was surprised by, as Tom Stoppard has been harping on about theatre audiences not being as clever as they used to be and not ‘getting’ his cultural and scientific references, which made me worried that I was going to be the Dunce in the back of the theatre. In actuality, I don’t think I missed anything (probably because I’ve been reading up on Quantum Physics as my latest intellectual sideline – before you think I’m a genius, I’m essentially poring over Quantum Physics for Dummies), and I actually found the science and philosophy behind the action very basic and rather cliched. The play was also utterly lacking in heart, which I do tend to think is rather a theme of Tom Stoppard’s plays; I remember seeing Arcadia in New York and thinking it was the most intellectually engaging play I’d ever seen, but it didn’t move me in the slightest. I’m all for thinking and and being challenged to consider the deeper meanings beneath our existence, but I do wish that Stoppard would inject a little more passion and personality into his characters. The actors did their best with what were essentially just types, and though the action sped by and I was absorbed in the plot, I left not really feeling anything, and personally, that’s what I go to the theatre for. I like my throat to tighten and my hand to flutter nervously to my chest; I don’t want to be a dispassionate observer of events. But the rest of the audience seemed to think it was marvellous, so you can take from that what you will. Sometimes I wonder whether it’s all a bit Emperor’s New Clothes with people like Stoppard. The theatrical equivalent of Damien Hirst, perhaps?

Looking forward to the next few weeks, I’m excited to go to the new exhibition at Two Temple Place, which is just as interesting to visit for the building as for what it houses. I also can’t wait for the Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty exhibition at the V&A, which will be especially interesting as I saw its original incarnation at the Met back in 2011, and I’m intrigued by the Tate’s exhibition of early photography, Salt and Silver. I’ve got tickets booked for Eugene O’Neill’s Ah, Wilderness! at the Young Vic, and for Bernard Shaw’s Man and Superman at the National, so I shall be quite the culture vulture as I wait for the weather to warm up and the skies to brighten!